Chef Kazuyuki Itagaki elevates the beloved Japanese dining tradition in his Hong Kong debut through exceptional multicourse menus starring three rare premium wagyu varieties
Hong Kong –Sukiyaki Nakagawa celebrates its soft opening, bringing an authentic and flavourful Kansai sukiyaki ritual to the culinary destination of CUBUS in Causeway Bay. Helmed by culinary maestro Chef Kazuyuki Itagaki, a recent addition to Hong Kong from Akita Prefecture, the new sukiyaki haven showcases three exquisite Japanese wagyu-beef varieties: the internationally acclaimed Matsusaka wagyu, Oita wagyu and Jinnai Wagyu Aka.
This convivial dining practice traces its roots back to the Meiji Restoration of 1868 in Tokyo’s Shiba district, where a delightful hot-pot restaurant named Nakagawa pioneered the art of sukiyaki. Drawing inspiration from this first establishment, Sukiyaki Nakagawa pays homage to the vibrant culinary culture’s origins. With a focus on the flavoursome Kansai style of cooking, Chef Itagaki preserves and elevates this treasured heritage through meticulously crafted multicourse omakase-style menus that embody the time-honoured Japanese principles of beauty, purity and harmony.
Chef Itagaki brings his refined skills to Hong Kong after a distinguished 25-year career. At the age of 19, he ventured beyond his native land, honing his talent at the five-star The Okura hotels in Tokyo and Amsterdam. In 2004, he returned to Japan, driven to further perfect his culinary expertise. With a profound appreciation for Japanese art and culture, he acknowledges that dining is not merely a part of life but a pathway for self-expression.
In celebration of the soft opening of Sukiyaki Nakagawa, Chef Itagaki sources three types of premium wagyu from Japan’s renowned cattle-rearing regions, crafting an unparalleled sukiyaki experience. The star of the show is the limited supply of Matsusaka beef, widely considered the most prized wagyu and a coveted delight for discerning Hong Kong gourmands. Alongside this exceptional delicacy, guests can savour the rare Oita wagyu from Oita Prefecture and Jinnai Wagyu Aka, an acclaimed lean red wagyu sourced from Hokkaido. To cater to diverse preferences, the menu also offers alternatives to beef, including the sweet, tender and juicy Hokkaido Yume no Daichi Pork with its delicate, melt-in-your-mouth fat, as well as French Duck Breast and cuts of New Zealand Lamb.
Chef Itagaki curates 3 exquisite sukiyaki dinner menus, choose from 5 courses with wagyu (HK$780), an 8-course wagyu indulgence (HK$1,080), or the ultimate wagyu sukiyaki experience spanning 9 courses (HK$1,380).
Lunch menus begin at HK$280 per person for 5 courses featuring pork sukiyaki, and HK$380 per person with duck breast or lamb. Beef connoisseurs can plump for the 5-course wagyu set (HK$480), while those seeking a true omakase sukiyaki experience can savour the 7-course wagyu menu (HK$1,080).
The wagyu sets showcase Oita wagyu and Jinnai Wagyu Aka. Diners seeking an elevated experience have the option to upgrade to Matsusaka beef for an additional HK$150 per piece, while those with hearty appetites can supplement their menu with an extra piece of Matsusaka beef for HK$250.
Chef Itagaki’s Kansai-style sukiyaki experience is a collection of cherished moments. The sukiyaki pan is greased with wagyu fat and white sugar from Fukuoka, imparting a slightly caramelised flavour to the meat. Once lightly seared, a soulful sauce made with soy sauce from Yuasa in Wakayama Prefecture, the birthplace of soy sauce, is added. The chef’s secret blend of seasonings enhances the natural goodness, resulting in a harmonious fusion of flavours that captivates the senses.
As the star of the menu, the internationally renowned Matsusaka wagyu from Mie Prefecture embodies purity and a high-fat-to-meat ratio. This exceptional wagyu is distinguished by strict identification measures, with each cow registered in the Matsusaka Beef Individual Identification Management System and accompanied by an official certificate. Its unrivalled taste experience unfolds with rich, sweet flavours derived from exquisite marbling of the highest grade (BMS 12). What truly sets it apart is the remarkable melt-in-the-mouth sensation, attributed to its extremely low fat-melting point of 17 degrees Celsius, far below the wagyu norm of approximately 26 degrees.
The Bungo Japanese black cattle of Oita, with their century-old heritage, offer a richly flavourful and tenderly textured meat. Raised on fertile farmland and nourished with a diet of rice and beer mash, they represent the pinnacle of excellence. Only those meeting the most stringent criteria, including a meat-quality ranking of grade 4 or 5, are classified as the esteemed Oita wagyu, guaranteeing an extraordinary culinary encounter.
Sukiyaki Nakagawa’s wagyu offerings also feature Jinnai Wagyu Aka, a red wagyu sourced from a farm in Hokkaido’s Kabato district. These cattle, originally from Kumamoto Prefecture, are raised according to the principles of sustainable farming. A true embodiment of good health, the meat is rich, tender, lean and muscular, preserving the natural essence of this exceptional breed.
As part of the sukiyaki experience, two delectable dips are served, featuring the prized Kosawari Tamago eggs from Hyogo Prefecture known for their high vitamin E content. One dip involves minimal steaming, gently warming the yolk while lightly cooking the outer edge of the egg white; while the other dip has a fluffy meringue-like consistency, achieved by separating and whisking the egg white.
Complementing the menus are dishes that pay homage to the changing seasons. During late spring and early summer, diners can expect delightful appertiser options such as Hokkaido’s Ezo Awabi (abalone), Hotaru Ika (firefly squid), Slow-cooked Duck Breast with Japanese Shallot Sauce, and Tofu with Soramame (boiled broad bean) and Japanese Tomato, all designed to tantalise the palate.
The sashimi selection might include Cuttlefish with Yuzu Salt, Chutoro (medium fatty tuna), and Kelp Marinated Kinmeda (splendid alfonsino). Additionally, Chawanmushi (Japanese savoury steamed custard) could be served with Snow Crab accompanied by Pickled Sakura.
Chef Itagaki’s culinary expertise shines through in his signature multicourse menus, where he showcases his skills and imagination. One standout dish is Goose Liver Sukiyaki on Soy Milk and Egg Toast, featured in both the 9-course dinner and 7-course lunch menus. Highlighting pan-fried French goose liver with sukiyaki sauce foam, this exquisite creation is served on incredibly soft toast infused with soy milk and eggs from Hokkaido.
Designed to suit Hong Kong’s hot and humid climate, Akita Cold Inaniwa Udon in Refreshing Lime Dashi is featured on the 8-course and 9-course dinner omakase menus. This dish showcases the renowned smooth and silky Inaniwa udon, originating from Chef Itakagi’s home prefecture of Akita, served in a clear fish broth infused with the refreshing tang of sudachi (Japanese lime) citrus from Tokushima. This unique variation adds a revitalising twist to the traditional noodle bowl, and comes as a delightful contrast to the next course – a flavourful combination of Wagyu Beef and Sea Urchin with Egg Sauce on Japanese Claypot Cooked Rice, presenting the richness of wagyu, the indulgence of Hokkaido uni, and a house-made egg dip that perfectly complements the rice.
The culinary team demonstrates meticulous attention to detail in their selection of rice and the cooking vessel. Yumepirika rice, renowned as Hokkaido’s finest variety, offers an appealing combination of low-sugar sweetness and a sticky, glutinous texture that pairs exceptionally well with sukiyaki. It is expertly prepared in Yokkaichi Banko Yaki pottery, sourced from Mie Prefecture, where the rich tradition of ceramic craftsmanship spans nearly 300 years. These artisanal pots, highly regarded for their exceptional heat resistance and primitive composition, play a significant role in producing the most flavourful rice imaginable.
Underlining the authenticity of the sukiyaki experience, seasonal vegetables are sourced from Japan. Chef Itagaki proudly introduces the succulent and meaty dark-pink Momotaro Tomatoes, and Shungiku (chrysanthemum leaves) from Niigata, which are regarded as essential components of Japan’s sukiyaki culture.
Sukiyaki Nakgawa’s drinks menu is the brainchild of Chef Ho Wai-leung, a qualified sake sommelier. Seasonal sake selections and exquisite pours hail from the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute of 90-year-old sake brewing legend and toji (sake master) Noguchi Naohiko, including Honjozo, Junmai and Junmai Daiginjo and traditionally crafted sakes using Miyamanishiki, Gohyakumangoku and Aiyama rice varieties.
“I am thrilled to be here in Hong Kong and extend a warm welcome to all gourmands in the city,” says Chef Itagaki Kazuyuki. “Sukiyaki Nakagawa takes great pride in presenting the authentic flavours of Kansai-style sukiyaki, offering an unforgettable culinary experience. We celebrate the artistry of traditional Japanese cuisine at every step, from our meticulous knife work to the enticing aromas that fill the air during the sukiyaki cooking ritual. We promise guests a delightful gourmet journey where they can indulge in the genuine essence of Kansai through our thoughtfully curated dishes and heartfelt hospitality.”
At Sukiyaki Nakagawa, diners can enjoy lively interactions with the chef in an atmosphere of simplicity, serenity and elegance. The open kitchen and hinoki (cypress wood) bar counter with its pleasing, healing scent take pride of place in an intimate 15-seat space spanning 420 square feet. The interiors blend traditional Japanese elements and subtle contemporary flair, with walls adorned with washi paper and a showpiece ceiling of straw mats.
Sukiyaki Nakagawa is located at Shop B, 3/F, CUBUS, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong, and opens daily from 12 noon to 2:30 p.m. for lunch and 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. for dinner.
